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In this video we will show you some of the steps required to reupholster a back-to-back
lounge recliner seat. This type of seat is used as the helm seat in Brian’s 1982 Regal
245 XL Ambassador Powerboat. Sailrite’s project boat for 2016. As often is the case,
the wooden base and the backer boards of the old seat are rotted and in need of replacing.
Brian will remove the seat from the boat, remove the old vinyl and use the old rotted
wood as a template to make a wooden base and backer boards. He will then assemble the new
base and prep the backer boards for re-upholstery. We will not be showing Brian doing that, but
rather will highlight the reupholstery of the base and the seats using supplies from
Sailrite. Since the wood was rotten, Brian used a marine plywood and then painted the
surface to prolong its life. He’s now assembled the base and it’s ready to reupholster.
Cindi will show us how it’s done. Here’s Cindi. Okay we’re ready to start on the base for
the captain’s seat for Brian’s boat. I’ve got my vinyl laid with the right side down
here on the table. We’re going to trace all the way around the four sides to get a
pattern to cover this outside area of the base. So I’m just going to trace along the
edge all the way around this piece. Give yourself a couple inches here and at the top to work
with when you get ready to pull it around. I’m also going to go around this cut out
kind of roughly. When I actually cut the vinyl, I want to give myself a couple of inches in
here to work with also. Eric: She’s moved the platform and adds
2” to the top and the bottom so that she can roll it around and staple it. I’m going to go ahead and mark a ½” seam
here so that I remember not to cut it on this line before I move on to the next piece. Eric: Four panels will be sewn together around
the perimeter of our frame. This ½” seam allowance (put on both sides) will allow for
that seam. Cindi flips the platform so she can trace the opposite side and repeat that
same procedure. Since these two ends are the same, I’m going
to mark this one with a 1 and this one with a 2, just in case the wood isn’t exactly
the same. Eric: The two ends look exactly the same,
but they’re probably not. That’s why she labels them with a 1 and a 2. Then she’ll
label her fabric panels on the backside with a 1 and a 2 as well so she knows exactly where
they go on the platform. Even though she’s tracing around the perimeter of the platform
exactly as it lays, she’ll need to add approximately 2” at the top and 2” at the bottom to
roll around the wood and staple it in place. Then on the two sides, which will be seamed
together to the other panels, she adds a ½” seam allowance. The marine quality vinyl from
Sailrite can be cut with scissors. She’ll cut out all four of the panels in preparation
for sewing, which is coming up next. She’ll also cutout the center here where there’s
access underneath the platform leaving approximately 2″ around the perimeter so that it can be
folded back and stapled to our wood platform. Coming up next, we’ll sew these four panels
together making our vinyl cover for the base. So this is #2 over here so I want to make
sure #2 panel ends up here. Eric: By placing the panels on the platform
we can assure that they are correctly orientated. I’m going to stitch from where this pencil
line starts to where it stops. I want to make sure that I have it matched up with the pencil
line on the other side. I’m going to stitch right along my pencil line. Eric: We’ll sew along that line with a straight
stitch that’s approximately 6mm in length. We’ll do some reversing at the beginning
here to lock the stitch in place. Then when we reach the other side, we’ll do some reversing
there as well. This is our first stitch. Our second stitch, or top stitch, will complete
this seam. Completing a seam like this is called a Semi Flat Felled Seam. To make this seam a little bit stronger, I’m
going to top stitch it. I’m going to press both of the seams to the side panel and stitch
with the edge of my presser foot against the seam. Eric: Take your time to carefully guide this
top stitch so the presser foot is right up against the first stitch. This stitch will
be visible. Do some reversing at the beginning and the end to lock your stitch in place.
Here’s what it looks like on the underside. Now I can add the other side panel to it.
I need to make sure that I have this at the top. I’m going to do the same process with
all of these seams. Eric: At all four corners that same procedure
will be followed yet again. We will not show all of this. Now I can add the last panel on the end. Just
making sure that you have the top at the same place with the wide part the same as the wide
part on this one. I am ready to join this last seam together. Just make sure that you
don’t get anything twisted and you have a circle here. Eric: The final step is the last top stitch.
She checks to make sure the flap on the underside is off to the side where she will sew that
top stitch. Before we place this vinyl on the base, we’re going to add a thin layer
of foam called Polyurethane Foam with Fabric Backing to it. This will give it a better
looking appearance. We’re going to add a layer of ¼” Sew
Foam to the outside of this to keep the rough edges from cutting through the vinyl. So I’m
going to do some rough measurements to cut my initial pieces of Sew Foam. So I want the
two sides to be about 42” x 17” and two pieces to be about 29” x 17”. Eric: What Cindi refers to as Sew Foam we
call at the Sailrite website and in the catalog Polyurethane Foam with Fabric Backing. We
carry it in a ¼”, ½”, and ¾”. Here we’re using the ½”. To glue it, we’ll
use 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. So I’m going to spray both surfaces a little
bit and press it up against the wood. Eric: We typically like to spray the adhesive
on the side of the foam that has the fabric backing. We also like to spray the solid surface
with the glue as well. Cindi’s careful to line up the bottom. She doesn’t want to
wrap the foam around the bottom because that’ll be up against the deck of the boat. So the
foam surface is on the outside. The fabric surface is on the inside. She’ll use an
electric kitchen knife to trim the foam to size. You can also use scissors, but an electric
kitchen knife works best. That same procedure will be followed for all the sides of our
platform. When adhering the foam, try to keep the bottom even. If you make mistakes, you
can sometimes pull it up and reapply it without damaging the foam. If you do this, try to
do it as quickly as possible so that you can make adjustments. Smooth everything down nice
and flat. The foam has been applied to all four sides. Now Cindi will address the hole
for the access underneath the seat. On this edge right here, we just want enough
left of the Sew Foam to pull around this edge. So I’m going to draw a line about the same
distance all the way around and then cut. Eric: The line she struck down can actually
be seen through the Sew Foam. So here she’s using the electric kitchen knife to trim along
that black permanent marker line that she struck on the opposite side of the Sew Foam.
Here’s a view from the inside. Along the top edge, we left about 2” of extra foam.
We don’t need all that foam. We just need enough to wrap around the top edge of the
board. Cindi will go around with scissors trimming it so that it will fold nicely over
the edge of the board here. We do not want excess foam on the backside where the vinyl
will be stapled. However, if we had a little bit, it probably would not affect much. When
the vinyl fabric is placed around this platform, it will be wrapped around the top edge. She
wants the foam to cover any obstacle that has to be covered with the vinyl fabric. So
any struts or any brackets here that are made from wood she cuts around those so that the
foam covers those. Along these sharp edges the vinyl fabric that will cover the foam
will take a smooth transition. And if it’s abraded- the vinyl fabric that is- the foam
will help protect it at those sharp edges. We have all of our Sew Foam applied all the
way around and trimmed the way that we want it to. I’m going to turn this over and start
from the bottom side because this is a smaller side so we’ll pull it on from the bottom. Eric: Next we’ll pull the cover over the
base and staple it around the edges. Now Cindi carefully positions the vinyl that she sewed
earlier onto that base. This will be a rather tight fit and that is what we designed it
to be. So this will take a little bit of work to get it into position. Here at the corners
you can see that Semi Flat Felled Seam looks beautiful, and it lays perfectly on each one
of the four corners. Okay we’re ready to start attaching our
vinyl to the base piece. I’m going to wrap it around and staple it from the back. Eric: Just create slits around obstacles and
staple the vinyl in place. I’m going to trim a little bit out here
so that when I fold this over it’s not quite so bulky. Eric: At each corner, it is traditionally
required that excess fabric be cut away. You just do not want to cut so much fabric away
that a slit shows up. So be careful when you do that. That’s better. Eric: This is the bottom side of the base.
Creating slits and taking out excess fabric so it lays nicely and then stapling it in
place. Here at this corner, she’ll make a wedge out of the fabric so it takes this
turn a little bit smoother. So a triangular wedge is cut out of the vinyl. We’re going
to skip ahead here and now flip the base over so that we’re working on the top edge- the
edge that will actually be up when the base is installed to the deck of the boat. We’re going to start on the top edge of
this seat base. I want to trim around these boards and these boards and bring the vinyl
into here so we protect the top edge of this board, as we did the bottom. Eric: As she cuts to accommodate this obstacle,
notice she cuts slits only so deep, then checks, then recuts if necessary so the cut does not
go too deep and become exposed. Since the bottom edge is secured, she’ll need to pull
the fabric taut as she staples this top edge. The actual top ledge will not really be visible
since there’ll be a cushion platform placed on top of it. But we still want to try to
make it look as best as possible. So we’re making sure that the slit does not go deeper
than the top edge of the platform or base. You can see clearly here how the Polyurethane
Foam with Fabric Backing that is laid underneath of our vinyl makes these edges and transitions
look nice and smooth and rounded in appearance rather than a rigid turn. Here at this corner,
just like we did on the underside, we’ll cut away some of the excess fabric so that
the fabric lays here without a lot of bulk. Here’s an inside turn. These areas are rather
tricky as the vinyl does not want to take the dip, or inside turn, well. Cindi made
a slit in the vinyl fabric going for the center of the curve, but stops short in an effort
to cover the top edge of the base. As she finishes the turn at this corner, as shown
earlier, let’s discuss an option regarding inside turns and vinyl fabrics. Carefully
heating the vinyl with a heat gun can typically help resolve the issues of inside curves.
However, we are not going to show that in this video. We will post another video showing
how to accomplish that task in the future so be watching for it. For this seat, we’re
simply going to pull the vinyl down as close as possible to the inside corner because we
will use Hidem Gimp on the edge of the board and that will pull the vinyl down and also
give it the upholstered look we’re looking for. Here’s a look ahead at us using the
Hidem Gimp. We’ll show more of this a little bit later on in the video. Now simply trim
away the excess material around the base on the inside. You can use a razor blade or scissors.
Under our helm seat is an opening in the base for the storage of gear. We’ve already cut
away the vinyl fabric to accommodate for this opening. As you can see, we left several inches
to wrap to the backside and staple in place to the board. Here is yet another inside curve,
which we will do just like we did earlier. We will show only doing one of the four for
this rectangular opening. Again we’re opting not to use a heat gun here, but rather we’ll
apply Hidem Gimp over the edge after we have the vinyl pulled as close as possible to the
inside corners of this opening. In an attempt to get this vinyl closer to that corner, she’s
going to create yet one more slit in the vinyl. That will allow it to hug the corner. Not
perfectly, but as close as possible. This next chapter will show using Hidem Gimp
as a trim around the edges of our opening and inside turns. We’re ready to finish up the seat base.
The mechanism that makes this whole thing work is all attached to this board. When you
lay it in here, you can see that it’s going to rub on this area. So we’re going to do
a little more cutting and add this Gimp to this top edge to help protect it. The other
thing that happens is when this seat comes out and is extended it does rub on that area
underneath here. So it’ll also help with the wear and tear on that area.
So I’m going to trim this one in just a little bit more, make a couple more cuts,
so it lays better into this corner before I put the Gimp on top of it. Eric: Cindi will remove a few staples here
because she thinks she can pull the vinyl in place better. Placing a staple along this
top edge is okay. Mainly because we’re going to be covering it with the Hidem Gimp, coming
up next. The Hidem Gimp opens up revealing the center and a staple can be installed along
its opening. Then the two edges, which are folded under, will fold back, concealing the
staples that install the Hidem Gimp to your application. Cindi will open up the Hidem
Gimp revealing the staple that was installed in the middle of the Hidem Gimp. This Hidem
Gimp should help protect the vinyl cover on the base from the abrasion that the seat’s
bottom may inflict. The Hidem Gimp will also be installed along the storage opening’s
edge in the same manner. We’re starting the Hidem Gimp along the top here so the joint
will not be visible when it is flipped right side up. Since we are not using a heat gun,
a few more slits will allow the vinyl to come closer to the edge of the wood as we staple
the Hidem Gimp in place over the top. Now we’ll flip the base around so that we’re
working with it upside down and work on that joint. Basically staple all the way to the
joint, cut so that the Hidem Gimp is butted up against the starting position, and then
place a staple right in the center of the assembly, joining those two halves together
almost perfectly. There we go! Hidem Gimp is now installed.
The seat has already been disassembled off camera. So let’s use this illustration to
show how the seat was made and the steps we will take to reupholster and reassemble it.
In general, reverse the steps required for the disassembly to reupholster the chair.
Let’s walk you through those steps again. The main backer board is what slides on the
base we just upholstered. To it, side bolsters will be attached to the port and starboard
sides. Then a secondary backer board, which the actual seat will be upholstered to, will
be fitted between the side bolsters and the board permanently, attached to the main backer
board, completing our seat. Okay we’re ready to work on the seat base
for this boat seat. This is the front and it has a little protection along the front
and then a piece of vinyl just wrapped around here to start with. This doesn’t have to
be cut exactly. We can trim it after we cut it after we apply it to the board. Eric: The front lip of this board will be
visible. She’s cutting Polyurethane Foam with Fabric Backing to size into strips so
it can be stapled along the front edge. Padding the sharp edges of the board will give the
vinyl (when it’s upholstered on) a smoother look. This main backer board for the seat
needs to have the front edge covered with vinyl. Why? Cindi will explain that next. This piece has an arm rest that lays over
here, a seat cushion here, another arm rest over here. So all this is doing is protecting
this front area from wear. Then I’m going to apply another one back here to do the same
thing. Eric: Not only does it protect it from wear,
but that front edge will be visible. So that’s why this strip is approximately 5”-6”
in width so it can wrap around the edge and conceal it giving it a nice appearance when
that edge is visible. Here’s what the front edge looks like when it’s complete. Coming
up, she’ll staple a vinyl piece to the back edge. This edge will not be visible. We did
not install the Polyurethane Foam with Fabric Backing there. Next we’ll pattern and sew
the side bolsters. We’re ready to take apart this piece and
use it for our patterns. I’ve got the front marked here, and I’m going to make a couple
of other marks on it so that I get it put back together correctly. Eric: These are the side bolsters that go
on the port and starboard side of our seat. I’m going to make a mark right here where
this seam comes into this piece. The other thing I’m going to do is add probably a
couple inches all the way around the bottom. When I cut these pieces out, we’re having
a little debate here on what type of foam to use here. So we want to make sure I have
enough to go over whatever foam we decide to use. Eric: She’ll cut apart the old side bolster
as a pattern to make the new. So this is the end that I want to allow a
lot of extra on. Eric: We want to have plenty of fabric where
the side bolsters will be pulled around the side of the board and attached or stapled
to the bottom side of the board. So that’s why we need excess fabric along the bottom
edge of these side bolsters. I made a mark right here where this one connects
to the other one so I’m going to transfer that mark also. Eric: These are match-up marks that will be
used to help join the panels of the side bolster together. It’s to keep us from getting confused.
Simply trace around your patterns and include excess fabric where it needs to be pulled
under the board. I’m going to leave this part here where
it was cut before. This is probably a cut to go around the board. I want to do that
however it fits with my new piece, not by the old piece. Eric: After patterning, label each piece to
aid in knowing where each piece goes when it needs to be sewed together. We’re not
going to show it, but we’re going to cut these side bolsters panels out and then use
the ones we cut out to pattern for the opposite side side bolsters. I’m going to cut these again wrong sides
together so that I have the opposite side cut before I start to sew. Eric: She’ll then transfer the match up
marks and any labeling that she’s done previously. Now she’ll start to lay panels next to each
other where they need to be sewn together. She uses the old pattern to help in enabling
her to understand the new patterns. That’s the first seam right there. The stitching
would stop right here and this will get finished off when we attach it to the frame. So I’m
going to stitch…this is my first seam I’m going to stitch right to here. Eric: How’d she come up with that? By comparing
it to the old piece. She’ll take it to the sewing machine and sew a straight stitch about
a ½” from the raw edges of the fabric. Anywhere a turn needs to be made, she’ll
make some relief notches in the vinyl so it takes the turn, or curve, smoothly. By comparing
the old pattern where they stopped and started sewing, this is where she needs to end her
sewing. It’s important to do some reversing to lock your stitch in place at the beginning
and the end of your sewing. This seam was not top stitched before, but
I think it’ll make it a bit stronger if we go ahead and top stitch it. So I’m going
to push both seams to one side and use the edge of my presser foot as the guide right
here along the seam. Eric: As she sews this top stitch, notice
she’s being careful to pull the seam apart so it is laying on that first stitch she made.
She’s sewing the flap on the underside- that’s the ½” flap- on the bottom side
so that it’s a very nice secure semi flat felled seam. The next step is to apply the cording to this
edge that we just created here. We added to the bottom of all of these pieces so this
original cording is going to be a little bit too short. So I want to make sure I have plenty
of cording. I’m going to run it from this bottom edge all the way around to this bottom
edge. Eric: When sewing the piping, it’s best
to use a thread that is corresponding or matching the piping as best as possible so that if
any thread shows up, it’s not as obvious. Or use a clear thread like Profilen Clear.
Notice where the two pieces were sewn together there’s a part sticking out. Cindi obviously
wants to create a smooth transition so she ignores that.
The Sailrite Ultrafeed Sewing Machines have a tunnel built into the standard foot to accommodate
the piping. No need to change the foot to a cording foot. If you’re sewing with another
sewing machine, you’ll need to install a cording foot here. I need to match up my marks here. This is
supposed to be like this. This will all fit in around here and form the front of the side
piece. Eric: You can see now why the match up marks
are so important. It would’ve been difficult to understand why it rests like this on top
of the other piece. Notice she’s starting in the center here. That’s because she can
sew one side making sure the match up mark is directly on top of itself, flip it over,
and then sew the other side down the other direction. She’s sewing right along the
piping, or cording, here. At the end, she’ll do a little bit of reversing. Now she’ll
flip the assembly and start sewing the other direction on the opposite side of the assembly.
Notice she did not do any reversing here. That’s because she started about 2” on
top of the last stitch. That secures it and the first portion of that stitch. As she makes
this turn, she’s being careful to line up the edges as best as possible. Let’s take
the assembly and turn it right side out and take a look at it. Now you can see how that angled piece forms
this area right here. Eric: We’ve decided to replace our old foam
so we’ll be cutting new foam to size for the side bolsters. We’re going to cut new foam for these side
pieces. We want this to be a little bit bigger than the old one because this is really compressed
so I’m going to give myself about a ½” all the way around. Eric: This ½” may be a little bit too big.
We’ll discuss that later on. Then after we cut that shape we’ll cut this
angle into it. Eric: The foam can be cut with an actual professional
foam cutting machine, as you see here. Or it can be cut with an electric kitchen knife,
which we’ll show in a few seconds. The discussion of what type of foam should be used is extensive.
No matter what type of foam is used, you will always have positives and negative factors
to contend with for any outdoor foam selection. We want this to look similar to this one,
but I’m not going to do a bunch of measurements or anything. I’m just going to kind of eyeball.
There’s a depth here and a depth here. The same back here. I’m just going to give it
a little bit of depth. Eric: Notice the size of this foam compared
to the old one. It is much bigger. It may be a little bit too big. We’ll test it in
a little bit. Then match up those two lines across the top
and across here. Eric: These lines will be used to help guide
our knife. Don’t have a fancy professional foam cutter? We’ll show you now how to use
an electric kitchen knife. Notice that Cindi is trying to hold the knife in such a manner
so it follows the line on the top and the line on the bottom trying to achieve the desired
cut angle that she wants for the side bolster. We’ve chosen to use a High Density Polyurethane
Foam for our side bolsters. It will be very firm indeed and last for years, no matter
how long the occupant is sitting on it due to the high density range of this foam.
Compare the size of this new foam with the old. It is a little bit too big in my opinion.
But we’ll test it out by stuffing it into the cover that we made previously and see
if we can compress it. Because it is a high density and firm foam, it is very hard to
compress it. But it does fit and we will go ahead and use it being that size. But in retrospect,
I believe we would’ve done better by cutting down the foam size slightly. We want the cover
to compress the foam so the foam should be slightly larger than the cover that’s being
fit around it for a good fit. Before we attach those little outside pieces
that we just made out here, I’m going to make a line where this piece sits into it.
This is what supports the seat. We’re going to cover this with foam and vinyl also. Eric: Our main backer board will have the
side bolsters attached to it. Then the secondary backer board will have the seat actually upholstered
to it. It will fit in between the side bolsters very snuggly. We’ll be upholstering our
seat bottom on this board she just removed. Before we attach our side bolsters, Cindi
evaluates the baseboard and has decided that the corners need some foam padding. We’re going to apply a small piece of this
¼” Sew Foam to this corner. When we pulled the vinyl over, this is kind of a sharp edge
so I don’t want that to tear through the vinyl eventually. Eric: This foam at the corners will also give
the side bolsters a nice transition when it rounds the bottom edge of this baseboard.
It may have been wise to run it along the sides completely instead of just the corners.
It’s now time to attach the side bolsters. Be sure you put it on so it’s facing the
right direction. This is kind of an awkward piece to put back
on so I’m going to just put a couple of staples back here to hold it in place and
then see where else I need to work with it. Eric: This job is made easier with two people.
However, as you see here, it can be done with one. Your job is to pull the vinyl around
the board and staple it to the back side so that it’s nice and tight. At this point,
we only want a few staples in here hopefully in the right spot so we can determine that
everything fits appropriately. We can pull them out if it doesn’t. Notice that the
vinyl cover is a little bit on the small side and the foam is rather large. She will force
the cover over the foam. Would’ve been a little bit easier if the foam was a little
bit smaller. Here along this front edge, we want to staple through two layers of the vinyl
so she’s folding back a layer. She will pull that stitch so it’s almost down on
top of that board that she’s stapling it to. She’ll start here in the center. In
most situations, the vinyl takes a turn and then it is stapled on the side of an object.
Here the vinyl comes down and it takes a turn and then the staples hold it in place. That’s
why we’re going through two layers of vinyl in an effort to hopefully not have the vinyl
pull through the staple. Cindi will first install only a few staples along this edge
until she is assured that she’s happy the way it is fitting. We still have to pull more
of the vinyl down, but she believes she can do it. So she starts working on the corners.
There’s some excess fabric that can be cut out. She cuts along the edge of the piping
carefully creating a slit so the vinyl can be pulled down to the top surface of the board.
Then the flap of vinyl can be folded back where she cut it and stapled on the bottom
side of the board. So it gives it a finished look where she cut it. A cut or slit is also
made on the opposite side of the piping so that the vinyl there can be folded under along
the inside edge so it can be easily stapled down to that top surface of the board. The
fold along the top surface of the board will be concealed when the seat bottom is upholstered.
The seat bottom will be upholstered to a separate board. That board will be pushed down between
both side bolsters on the port side and the starboard side. One of two things can be done
here with the piping. It can be fed into the vinyl, as Cindi is doing here. Or it can run
straight down along the backside of the board and be stapled on the backside. It’s your
choice. Cindi’s not happy with that so she’s going to use the staple remover and her wire
cutters and remove that staple and pull it down a little bit more snuggly (if that’s
a word!). When she’s happy with the preliminary fit, she’s going to go ahead and staple
around the entire perimeter placing staples very close to one another so that the whole
side bolster is secured very, very well. Let’s go to the top surface and take a look
at that. Remember we only put a few staples there to secure this application while we
positioned and fitted it. We want to pull those staples out because the vinyl is not
pulled down as tight as we like. Here’s where a second helper would come in handy.
One could pull the vinyl, the other one could staple. Before finishing, she’s going to
check the seat bottom board and make sure it’s going to fit in there. It will fit
very snuggly inside of the side bolsters so that’s expected. But we believe that we
can pressure it in there when it’s upholstered. So we’ll continue just to staple on that
side bolster completing it. This is the portion of the bolster that’s along the back so
hardly anyone’s going to see it. But we want to show you what we do here because the
seam doesn’t come down as far as we like. So she’s going to fold the fabric back to
staple it at that location. Again this will not be visible as it’ll be up against the
backrest. Okay. When this piece is all upholstered it’ll
bump right up next to this one and make this a tight fit. Eric: You’re looking at it from the rear,
not the front. We’ll go ahead and staple securely all around the perimeter and then
cut away any excess. The following chapter covers the seat, which will be attached to
the secondary backer board. The top plate is made of three colors of vinyl and sewed
together with a French Seam, or double top stitch. Here’s Cindi. We’re ready to do the center section of
our seats. We’re going to use the same pattern that we used to create this cushion so that
the boat kind of coordinates in different areas. This is the original seat. I’m going
to cut it apart, but not use this. I do want to cut it apart so that I have these side
panels. So I’m going to take the seams out on this right now. Before I get it completely
cut apart, I’m going to put a mark so that I know where it goes back together- the two
pieces. I’m also going to mark the front of this piece. This is the placement that
we decided we wanted for this piece. This right here will be the channeling, and it’ll
come up to here. This will be blue and it’ll make this square corner. Then down here will
be all tan. So I’m going to draw a line, which will be my seam line eventually. But
when I cut this, I’m going to cut myself an extra 1”-1-1/2” so that we can cut
a pattern after we’ve made our piece. Eric: I’ll explain the extra here in a moment. So I’m going to cut this apart on the lines
that I just drew, but we’re going to save all of our pieces because we do have other
cushions that we want to do it. I’m not sure what we’re actually going to need of
this. Eric: This pattern was made in a previous
video called How to Make a Powerboat Lounge Cushion video. If you’d like to see that,
here’s the search. We need to cut apart these patterns so we can pattern each of the
colored vinyls. I’m ready to cut my pieces, and this one
here is cut out of the tan vinyl. Here this is what goes down the front of my cushion
so I’m going to allow 6”-7” extra. On this edge and this edge, I want to allow about
1-1/2”-2”. Eric: What she means along the front edge
is she needs to come around the foam and around the backer board to be stapled on the backside. This curved edge is where it’ll be seamed
so I only want to allow ½” here. Eric: Why the excess on the two ends? Because
when we sew these pieces together, it’s possible that we may get some shrinkage. We
want to have extra material there so we can cut it to size after it’s been sewn together-
all three of the colors that is. Along the edge where this vinyl has to join with a second
colored vinyl and be seamed together, she’s adding a ½” seam allowance. She’s using
the Clear Acrylic Ruler. Notice how she moves it so she matches the edge of the pattern
on the bottom side and then marks it a ½”. Here along this one side she needs to have
excess material because the pattern we made earlier wasn’t big enough to cover that
area. So she measures down making sure she has enough fabric again for possible shrinkage. I’m going to transfer my marks of where
these pieces go together so that I get them stitched back together in the right place. Eric: These marks were placed on the pattern
material before it was cut apart. On the blue piece, I’m going to leave about
2” out here, 2” over here, and just a ½” here and here on these curved lines
where the seams will be. This little area right here I need to leave the 6”-7” because
this is what’s going to wrap down and around under the board after we make the piece. Eric: She’s patterning with the pattern
facing up so she has to mark on the vinyl material on the right side of the fabric,
not the wrong side of the fabric. We’re using a #2 pencil for this. Then we want to continue this curve out to
the end of the piece, even though the edge of the board ends right here. I’m going
to draw a line and continue the curve out to the edge of the piece. I’m going to draw
a light line right here so I can add my ½” to it. Eric: We already discussed it, but this pattern
was used for a different cushion. That’s why it doesn’t exactly fit here, and we
have to add that amount here. So it looks like we’re not going to need
all of this out here. We’re going to add it to this piece out here when we get that
far. We’re going to cut this one right here. Eric: Now cut it out along those lines you
struck down. Here it’s a ½”. And here it’s a ½”. Don’t forget to add your
match up marks so you know exactly where these panels need to lay next to each other. Our
last color is a channeling material. We’ll tape it in place first. This piece we need a ½” seam down here.
This will be seamed a couple of inches out here and back here’s where we need 6”-7”. Eric: These 6”-7” will be used to wrap
around the backer board. So in order to get this corner cut correctly
on this piece, I’m going to lay my blue piece on here. I know that I need to come
out this far and I need to follow this line across. So somewhere in here I need to meet
those two lines to cut this correctly. Eric: Don’t forget to add the match up marks.
Now all three of our colored vinyl pieces are cut out to the appropriate size. Before I stitch this all together, I’m going
to turn it over and cut an opposite one for the other side of the seat. Eric: As you can see here, we need two of
them. Before I cut my other one, these seats sit
back-to-back so we want the second one to be opposite so that this curve goes towards.
They both end up in the center so we’re going to cut it with the right sides together
for the second one so that it looks like this. Eric: Right sides are facing each other, as
shown here. We will not show cutting out the other three panels, but here they are done.
Now we’ll continue on to sewing. We’re ready to stitch these together. I’m
going to start with this seam and line up my marks. I’m going to stitch from here
out and then from here out. I want to do ½” seam here so I’m going to put my Magnetic
Seam Guide on. I put my needle down right at the 1/2” on my seam gauge and then I
can slide the guide right up to the gauge. Take my needle off and remove the gauge. Eric: By starting right directly over our
match up marks, we’re assured that the panels are lined up appropriately. Then we’ll flip
this panel over and sew the other direction down the other side. We started at the match
up marks. Now we’ll flip the panel and sew the other side down the other way matching
up the edges as we sew. Keeping that stitch an exact ½” away using that magnetic guide. This area right here we’re going to be doing
a French Seam- top stitching on both sides, on both colors here. So to make that a little
bit easier here, and to make this seam stronger, we’ll apply the Grosgrain Ribbon to the
back. I’m going to apply the Seamstick to the Grosgrain Ribbon to hold it all in place
when I stitch it because I’ll be stitching from the front. Eric: A French Seam, or double top stitch
as it’s sometimes referred to, looks great. Without this tape, or strip of fabric on the
backside, there is no strength in the two stitches that lay beside our primary stitch.
So it’s important to use this. Using the Seamstick will help to hold it in place as
we take it to the sewing machine and sew. Again, a second helper would be helpful here-
one person splays the seam open, the other person bastes the tape on top of it near the
center. This 1” tape does not necessarily have to be directly in the center. We’re
going to sew very close to that first stitch, as you’ll see in the next step. For this row of stitching, I need to remove
the seam guide. I’m going to stitch with this edge of the presser foot right up against
following along this seam. Eric: We did some reversing at the beginning
and here we’ll do some reversing at the end, but it’s really not required because
we do have to cut this down to size. Before I go down this other side, I’m going
to check to make sure I have enough bobbin. This is a hard place to make it look good
if you run out of thread. So it’s better to check first and make sure you have enough
thread to do the whole seam. It looks like I have plenty. Eric: We want to sew that second top stitch
with the same side of the presser foot. That’s why we’re starting from the opposite end
here so that it’s still using the presser foot on the right side of the sewing machine
as you face it. Here is our French Seam, or double top stitch. Now we’re ready to sew the channeling to
our other two pieces. I’ve got marks here and marks here that I want to match up. I’m
going to do this the same way. I’m going to stitch from here out to the end and then
come back and stitch from here out to the end. Eric: We’ll use the magnetic guide, position
it a ½” from the needle, and then we’ll sew this together just as we did with the
previous panels, starting from the match up marks. So here’s where I need another ½” seam.
I need to be careful. This channeling will stretch as you’re sewing if you’re not
careful with it. I really don’t want it to stretch so I’m going to try to kind of
push the channeling a little bit in as I stitch. Eric: As Cindi tries not to stretch or shrink
up the channeling, she also has to be aware of matching up the edges of both pieces because
there’s shape involved. So she’s doing this very carefully and slowly trying to keep
the shape of the channeling fabric exactly the same as it was intended to be, not stretching
or pushing it in too hard. If you so choose, you could use a ¼” basting tape and pre-baste
it before sewing. It’s your choice. Now that that run is done, she’ll flip the panel
over and sew the opposite direction from the match up marks. This time the channeling fabric
will be on the underside. Okay, on this edge here we’re not going
to stitch on both sides. We decided we didn’t like the way it looked; we did a sample. So
I’m just going to stitch on the blue top stitching, and I’m going to push all of
the seam towards to the blue. That will make this seam stronger also to have everything
going to one side and then the top stitch added to it. Eric: Now that it’s sewn on the one side,
we don’t have to worry about the channeling fabric stretching or being pulled too hard
as we sew it. We can just concentrate on keeping that stitch at the same distance away from
the first stitch. So here’s our first piece put together.
We need to add some side panels to it and get it cut to size and we can apply it to
the wooden base. This is the piece that we’re going to work on next that we just made the
pattern for with the three different vinyls. So this is the original piece. This is the
side panel that I need to cut right now. Then we’ll cut the piece that we made with the
channeling down to size and put it together. Eric: We’ll pattern these sides just like
we did with our side bolsters leaving excess fabric at the bottom. So on this piece I’m just going to trace
around where the seam is at the same size, but I’m going to give myself some extra
at the bottom so I have plenty to pull with. Eric: We need two of these so we’ll mirror
the second one. Outside surfaces are facing each other. I’m going to transfer my mark that I made
when the piece was still together so I know how to put it back together and that this
is the front. We’re ready to cut this piece to size. You can see it’s quite a bit bigger
all the way around. I’m going to need a ½” seam on this edge and on this edge so
that’s what I’m going to use to start with, leaving my pattern on there and marking
a ½” seam out from the pattern. Eric: Notice on the Dura Skrim Pattern Material
the notch near Cindi. That’s because this pattern was actually used for a different
cushion, as we discussed earlier. We’ll ignore that. I’ll do that on both sides. Before I move
the pattern, I’m going to take my side panel and lay it up here. This piece is going to
be sewn around this edge so I want this ½” seam in this area to be ½” beyond where
I’ve cut my pattern. Eric: In other words, the side boxing needs
to extend past our pattern material by a ½”. So Cindi’s pulling it here so it equals
a ½”. Then she’ll go to that match up mark and mark it on the top portion of the
cushion- what we call the plate. Then I’m going to use the reference point
that I put on the old piece and mark it on this piece so that I know where to sew this
piece back to this piece. Eric: She will follow that same procedure
for the opposite boxing piece on the other side of the cushion using it a ½” beyond
the pattern and then marking where that rests. Next we’ll cut along those lines we just
struck down. The extra material that we calculated into this process was just in case it shrank.
It’s better to have too much than too little. We will sew the piping onto the sides of this
top cushion, just as you see here. Now we need to find that match up mark. It’s buried
under here someplace. Okay, where did I put my mark? There it is. Eric: We’ll line up those marks on the top
of the cushion (called the plate) with the mark on the boxing, which is a side of the
cushion. Then we’ll start sewing from that mark going down one direction. When we’re
done sewing that way, we’ll flip the assembly and sew from that mark again going the other
direction. Watch here. When Cindi gets to the corner, she’ll take her scissors and
cut some notches out of the plate where the corner will take a bend. The piping already
has notches in the flange because this is a pre-fabricated piping. But this will help
the assembly to take that turn a little bit more smoothly. She’s making sure the edges
of the boxing are lined up with the edge of the plate. Remember we have excess material
at the bottom so don’t be alarmed when it doesn’t match up perfectly there. Flips
the assembly and she’ll start sewing at that mark, approximately 1”-2” over the
previous stitches, doing the same procedure. At any turns, make a few notches or one, which
will help the assembly take the turn. Fabric often has to stretch at a turn and these notches
help it to stretch. If the fabric has to shrink, sometimes a notch can help it shrink as well.
So relief notches are a good idea. Hopefully this stitch is inside the first stitch. That
way the first stitch won’t show up when the assembly is splayed apart next to the
piping. So try to sew either on top of that first stitch, or a little bit on the inside
towards the piping itself. That will conceal that first stitch that sewed the piping to
the plate. This one side is done. Now we will repeat this process for the other. Here’s
what it looks like when it’s turned right side out. Let’s move on. We’re ready to cut our foam pieces for our
back and our seat panels. We’re using a High Density 3” Foam so it’ll wear well
for the use of the boat. I’ve put these so that I get the best use out of the foam
that I can. I’m going to take the marker and just mark ½” around each edge. We’ve
moved this edge and this far edge over here so that we don’t have to cut this one edge.
I’m going to mark these A, B, C, and D so I keep the foam with the board. Eric: Cutting foam is not too difficult. In
fact, it can often be done with an electric kitchen knife. Here we are testing a possible
new professional foam cutting tool that Sailrite may carry in the future, if it passes extensive
testing. The old pieces have an angle cut in them so
that when the seat folds up it all fits together. So this angle on the old piece is about 2”
narrower than the rest of it. Eric: Cindi will mark the foam at 2” at
that location all along that edge. Then she’ll strike a line. After that, she’ll use the
foam cutter to cut the wedge, or angle, into the foam. So I’m going to draw a line 2” into the
bottom of this piece. Then when I cut, I’ll be angling it like this. Eric: Again, if you do not have a professional
foam cutter like this, you could use an electric kitchen knife. They’ll work in the same
principle as this. We’re working on the seat to the front boat
seat. I’m going to wrap the ¼” Sew Foam around the sides and the front edge just to
soften this little edge a little bit. Eric: The Sew Foam is called Polyurethane
Foam with Fabric Backing at Before I apply the foam inside of this, I’m
going to trim a little bit of this fullness out. You can see how it’s rippling right
here. That’s going to make it hard for this piece to lay flat. So I’m just going to
cut some little triangles out of that so that it can lay a little bit flatter when I turn
it over and put the foam in there. Cindi to Eric: That’s really a good visual
right there. Eric to Cindi: Yeah. Eric: When we started upholstering this cushion,
we forgot to add the Silk Film. Silk Film is a noiseless plastic that helps to prevent
water from leaking into the foam. It is a choice, but it’s probably a highly recommended
choice because water, when it gets inside of the Polyurethane Foam, takes a long time
to dry out. So had we to do this over again, we would’ve used the Silk Film here. As I’m putting this piece on, I want to
make sure that my seams are pushed to the outside. It’ll make the top look smoother
if everything is pushed to the outside. The other thing I want to notice is this cording
needs to come down at the corners of the wood on all four sides. So I’ll make sure that’s
in place before I start stapling. Eric: Again, the first few staples will tack
the assembly in place. You do not want to staple around the entire perimeter with staples
very close to each other. Just enough to determine if it’s in the right spot. If it isn’t,
we can remove the staples and reposition it. Notice that Cindi is pulling the vinyl fabric
very taut indeed as she staples it in place. Cindi’s happy with the way it looks. Now
she’ll go ahead and staple it more securely, putting staples every 1” or so. Cutting
out some of the fabric at the corner will allow the corner to take the turn a little
bit more smoothly. Along the underside, no one will be seeing this. If you notice that
a staple is possibly placed in the wrong spot, the fabric is not tight enough, go ahead and
pull it out. It’s easy to re-staple it in that location. Here she believes this staple
that originally tacked the assembly down is in the wrong spot. So she can pull the vinyl
up tighter and re-staple it. That is not uncommon. Still going to have that little dimple there
I think. Eric: We’re going to skip ahead here and
show you the finished product that will go in between our side bolsters. Looks good!
This video tutorial focused on the upholstery portion of the back-to-back lounge seat. We
did not cover the seat’s backrest. But it’s done in a similar manner as what you have
just viewed here for the seat bottom. The assembly of components varies from seat to
seat so we will not cover this process. Basically, reassemble the seat in the same manner it
was disassembled. Inserting a vinyl strip of fabric between the hinge and backer board
will help protect the vinyl fabric that has been upholstered to the seat. We did not show
the process for the backrest portion of the seat, but it’s done in the same manner as
what you already viewed in this video. Here’s the completed back-to-back lounge seat. Coming
up next is the materials list and tools list that we used to reupholster this captain’s
seat. Be sure to visit for all kinds of great high quality vinyl products
that you can use for your next upholstery job. If you have any questions regarding the
materials that we used or the tools that we used, be sure to give us a call or email us
at Sailrite. We did not show the process of making this cover out of Phifertex Plus. This
has a double hem around the perimeter and snaps that hold it to the base of the chair
to hide the opening or the compartment underneath. After the upholstery was done on this boat,
you can see here that Brian made a bimini with an aft extension using Sunbrella fabric.
He also made a full enclosure. And as you can also see here, Sunbrella weather cloths.
For more free videos like this, be sure to check out the Sailrite website or subscribe
to the Sailrite YouTube channel. It’s your loyal patronage to Sailrite that makes these
free videos available. Thanks for your loyal support. I’m Eric Grant, and from all of
us here at Sailrite, thanks for watching.