Eric: This video is brought to you by Sailrite.
Visit for all your project supplies, tools, and instructions.
In this video, Sailrite will show you how to make lounge chair cushions. We’ll be
using the world’s best outdoor fabric, Sunbrella upholstery fabric, from Sailrite. By upholstering
projects- including seat chairs, table runners, throw pillows, and of course outdoor furniture-
you can create luxurious outside lounge areas. Take your porch or patio to the next level
with a little help from Sailrite. We found some old furniture that’s frame
is made from metal. To restore it, we used a wire brush and steel wool to remove loose
paint. Then we used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer, which helps to convert any rust to a paintable
surface. Then after it dried, we used Rust-Oleum Hammered for a beautiful look on all our furniture.
Now that our frame is ready, Cindi- a professional seamstress for Sailrite- will show us how
to make lounge chair cushions. The first step is taking measurements. We’re going to start this chaise lounge
chair, and we’re going to use a 3” piece of foam to pad the whole thing. Then we’re
going to add a back headrest pillow up here. First I’m going to measure for the body
pieces of it. Inside the arms-22”. This piece will be separate from this piece because
of this bend in the frame. So we’re going to need a piece that’s 22”x 19” for
the seat. For this part, I’m going to make it 28 ½”. The back is 30” tall, but the
cushion will sit on top of the seat cushion so I’m going to subtract 2 ½” from that
and make it 27 ½” finished by 21 ½”; this is just a little bit narrower than the
seat. Eric: Not all lounge chair frames are the
same size so be sure to measure yours. I’m ready to cut my pieces for my chair
and I’ve added a ¼” to all original dimensions to get my seam allowances. I also need two
hinges to go in between the back and the seat and the seat and the foot. So I’m going
to cut those 22” wide by 4 ½” long. I also need ties to hold onto the chair, and
I’m going to use twelve of those- two at the top, two at the hinge between the back
and the seat, and then two at the foot. So I need twelve of them and those will be 2”
wide by 12” long. Eric: These ties will be made from several
long strips of fabric that are folded three times and then cut to size after they’re
sewn. My boxing will be cut at 3 ¼” wide. Zippers
will be cut- I’m going to make them just a little bit shorter than the width- so I’m
going to cut those at 20” wide by…boxing strip is 3 ¼” wide. So to get the width
of my zipper I’m going to divide that by two, which is 1.62”. I’m going to add
1”, and 1” is for this area here that I fold down. Eric: This fold down, which equals about 1”,
will conceal the edge of the zipper and make for a clean edge right in the middle of the
zipper teeth, as seen here. Now we know what size to cut our plates, our hinges, our zipper
plaques, our ties, and our boxing. These measurements are for our lounge chair.
Notice we cut the plates a ¼” larger on all sides than the desired finished size,
and the boxing is a ¼” wider than the foam thickness. Because I’m going to just cut my boxing
strips straight across the width of the fabric and then cut them to size later, I’m going
to go ahead and cut six of those. I may need more later, but I’m going to start with
six. Those are at 3 ¼”. Eric: Our lounge chair will have three cushions-
one for the seat, the back, and the foot. We need this boxing to wrap around the entire
perimeter of each one of those three cushions minus the area for the zipper. The absolute
bare minimum that we would need is 218” and that doesn’t even account for the stripes.
So divide that by our width of fabric and we need at least four strips; we’re going
to cut six. This piece of Sunbrella, it doesn’t matter
which side is the right or the wrong; you can use either side. They pretty much look
the same. I am going to mark the right and the wrong side just with a pencil mark and
an X just because I like to keep track of that. Some of the Sunbrellas you cannot use
both sides; there is a right and wrong side to them. But this one there is not. Eric: Throughout this video we’ll be using
some terms that are common for building cushions. Our lounge chairs are basically box cushions,
and this is the anatomy of a cushion. On this illustration you can see the zipper plaque.
That’s the place that the foam is inserted into the cushion cover and the zipper closed. I also need to determine what I want to use
as the center of this lounge chair because I want the same stripe to go all the way up
the chair, even though there are three different cushions. The way I usually figure that out
is to stand back and look at what stands out to me, and on this fabric, this white stripe
is what stands out. So this is what I’m going to use as my center. I want to make
sure that I have enough width that I can lay two pieces side by side. Otherwise I’d be
wasting a whole bunch of fabric. So my pieces are 22 ½” so I need 11 ¼”
in the center. Here is my center; here’s 22 ½”. I’m just checking to make sure
I can repeat this over on the other side of the fabric, and I can’t. I can’t repeat
that because my 11 ¼” is going to end up off the edge of the fabric. So I need to choose
a different center. If I make this dark green line right here my center, and try it again…there’s
my center and I need 22 ½”. If I find that same green line over here and put my pin in
the center- 11¼”. There’s my 22 ½” so I can get both front and back out of the
same width of fabric. I have the width determined on these pieces,
and the width on the seat and the foot will be the same. The width on the back is just
a little bit narrower. So for the seat I needed 19 ½”. I’m going to mark my 19 ½”
with a couple pins and then draw a line. Eric: For your information, a full material’s
list is found at the end of this video. Now I can cut this along the pattern of the
fabric. Because it’s a woven fabric, I know it’s going to be straight. Eric: Because we carefully determined the
center stripe, we can get two up, thus saving fabric, as we nest each one of these plates.
A plate is the top side of a cushion or the bottom side of a cushion. The banding around
it is called boxing. I’ve cut this seat panel and I’m going
to put a pin in the back top of this piece so that I know right side wrong side. Then
when I come over to cut the second one, because this is not a balance stripe, it’s not even
on one side to the other, it’s not even from here over as it is from here over; it’s
uneven, and I want my cushion to match all the way around. So I’m going to flip this
over and this is going to become the back of this piece. I’m going to match up the
stripe and cut it just like I did this one and put a pin back here. That will remind
me that this will match at the front; this becomes the front. Eric: The pins are always inserted on the
right side of the fabric, even though this fabric does not really have a right side/wrong
side; both sides can be utilized. However, you may pick a fabric that has only one side
that can be used as the outside surface. This is the top and bottom of my seat cushion
and when I put this boxing strip in the middle of it… Eric: If we would’ve used a hotknife to
cut out the fabric, it would’ve eliminated the raveling that you see on the edge of the
fabric. You can see that I can match this cushion
now all the way around the top to the boxing to the bottom, and by matching I mean the
stripe matches all the way around the cushion, which will give you a much nicer looking cushion. Eric: To keep from getting confused, we’ll
lay these two plates on top of the chair where they belong. It’s also a good idea to use
masking tape and mark each one of them. I’m going to cut the foot part and it’s
the same width as the seat was, only its 29” long. I’m also going to put a pin on the
right side at the back of this one. Eric: Let’s go back to discussing the hotknife
to cut the fabric out. There are some fabrics that unravel rather quickly, and in those
situations a hotknife is definitely recommended. But you’ll notice throughout this video,
even not using the hotknife, the unravelling is easy to contend with with this fabric. So here’s the two pins in my back section
of my foot piece. I’m going to leave it right sides together. I used this green stripe
as the center of my other pieces, and the back piece is just a little bit narrower.
I’m going to cut it at 22”. So I’m going to mark my sides again at 22” to cut, and
this one is 28” long. This is the back cushion so I’m going to mark the bottom of the back
cushion because it’s not front back; it’s top bottom. I want the bottom of the back
cushion marked so the pin is going to end up in the opposite place when I flip it over
on this one. I’ll show you when I put it on the chair. I’m going to put a pin in
the right side of this one also. Then when I put this together, this is going to be the
bottom of my cushion. Eric: Our boxing and all our plates are cut.
Up next we’ll cut ties. These will be used to fasten the cushion to the chair. I have all this scrap left that I could cut
the ties out of, but I’m going to show you why I’m not going to cut the ties this direction
on this fabric. Because of the weave, it’s pretty thick, and if I try to fold it like
this, it’s hard to fold and it’s hard to hang on to. If I fold it along the weave
of the fabric, it folds much nicer and it’s going to be much easier to make the ties.
You can tell that just by trying it with your fabric. Take the scrap of your fabric, fold
it this way and see how nicely it folds, how easily it folds, and then fold it this way.
Just go with whichever way folds easier. You don’t want to make it any harder on yourself
than it has to be. For the ties I’m going to go ahead and cut
all the way across the width and then cut it down to size. I will use the hotknife to
burn the ends of these because this fabric is way too thick to try and turn the ends
under to finish them off. I’m cutting them 2” and I’ll cut them down to 12”.
Eric: For us we want to use ties at six locations. We need two each at each location and each
of them are 12” long. I can actually sew this whole long strip into
one tie and then cut it down to twelve rather than cutting it into pieces and working with
the small pieces. Eric: Our fabric is 54” wide. We need three
strips for the ties. The next thing I want to cut is the hinges
that connect the cushions together, and those are going to be as wide as the cushions. They
are 22”, and I’m going to use the same center mark so that everything matches. I
want those to be 22” x 4 ½”, and I need two of them. Eric: The hinges will be folded in half and
attached to the seat bottom of our lounge chair to attach the foot portion and the back
portion. For the zippers I just cut straight strips
across the fabric. I’m going to cut those down to size now. I want those to be 20”.
I’m going to use my green center line and cut them 20” long; I’ll need six of those.
I will need six of these- one for each of the bigger cushions. We already made the zipper
for the headrest pillow. So these go in the box cushions. My boxing strip is 3 1/4”
wide. To get the width of my zipper, I’m going to divide that by two, which is 1.62”.
I’m going to add 1”, and the 1” is for this area here that I fold down. I’m going
to mark those on the back with a “Z” so I remember that they’re for the zipper. Eric: Our lounge chair only has three box
cushions- the seat, the back, and the foot. We only need three zipper plaques. Why do
we need to cut six? That’s because each side accommodates for one side of the zipper.
You can see here a fold is inserted into this zipper plaque and then it is butted up next
to the opposite one. That’s why we need six for our three zippers.
Coming up next, we’ll be making a headrest pillow for the lounge chair. This is an optional
step, but we believe it makes the chair look great and it’s more comfortable. Now we want to put a headrest pillow on this
chair that’s going to end up right here. I found this one on another chair that’s
already made. Someone’s already done the hard work for us of the measuring and the
designing so I’m going to use this as a pattern for my pillow for the new chair. Eric: Don’t worry. You don’t need to have
this. We’re going to show you how to do the patterning and give you the measurements. Here’s the hinge on this one. This is the
back piece with the zipper in it. The front piece is what makes the shape with these tucks
in it right here. So I’m going to take this apart and use this as my pattern. Eric: Cindi cuts apart the seams so that she
can take measurements of this headrest pillow. We’ll be showing you an illustration showing
the exact measurements of what to cut if you desire a headrest pillow for your lounge chair.
These will also be shown at the end of this chapter. Here’s the hinge piece. This is the zipper
piece. This is the piece that makes the shape of the pillow with these tucks on the corners.
So I’m going to open these up so I can use this as my pattern and then I’ll put the
tucks back in the new piece. This gives the pillow its depth.
This hinge is bigger than the other two because it will fall back here if you don’t want
to use the pillow on the chair, or it flips over here and holds the pillow onto the front
of the chair. So it has to cover the depth of the cushion right here and then fall down
as a pillow. This little piece that fits on each end of
the zipper is 2 ½” wide and 8” long, and you will need two of those. Zipper plaque
is 19” long and 5” wide, and you will also need two of those. I’m making it 5”
to add for the piece that we fold under to apply the zipper to. The face of the pillow,
or the front of the pillow, is 24” wide by 10 ½” long. The strap, or the hinge,
I’m adding a ½” at the end because I’m going to turn under that much to hem it to
finish the end. Well let’s make this one 22” because we made the others 22” so
they’ll be the same. So we’re 22” x 10 ½”. Eric: Here are the exact measurements you
need for the headrest pillow. We made our hinge the width of our other hinges that we
used on the lounge chair; you should do the same. Cindi will continue on here using the
old headrest pillow that she found as a pattern for the new fabric. These little pieces don’t have to match
anything so I’m going to cut them out of this little strip that’s left on the side.
Now I’m going to cut the front piece for the headrest pillow. This is the green line
that I’m using as the center in my other pieces so I’m going to center this one also.
This pillow has a little tuck in each corner, and these are marked by a clip in the old
pattern piece. So I’m going to also put a clip in my piece so I know where those tucks
are. That gets done at each corner. I’m just making clips in all the corners right
now. There’s the headrest pillow and I’m going to put the pin down here at the bottom
because that’s the right side. Now I’m going to cut the hinge and we decided
to cut this at 22” like the other hinges are, but I’m still going to center it and
cut it the same length from here to here as the old one. But it’s going to be 22”
wide. So this was 19” x 5 ½”. Eric: Cindi accidentally measures 5 ½”.
It’s actually 5” and that includes for the fold for the zipper. I did center this on my green center line,
but it does not have to be centered on the stripe because it won’t ever show on the
front of the chair. Eric: Even though this is the back of the
pillow, I would still center the stripes- if your fabric has stripes. I think it looks
best even when it’s laying backwards. I’m going to put a “Z” on the back of
this so I remember that this is a zipper plaque because there are a couple of these pieces
that are about the same size. The last thing to cut is the bias for the
cording. To do that I’m going to lay my ruler with the 45 degree angle on the ruler
on the straight edge of the fabric and draw a line and start there to get my bias cut.
The reason I like to cut it biased is because it goes around the corners easier and it doesn’t
fray. I’m going to cut this bias at 1 ½” because I know that that will work on the
cording that I’m going to use underneath it. Eric: When making bias piping, or cording,
we highly recommend using this rotary cutter, the cutting mat and the clear acrylic ruler.
This clear acrylic ruler is a must for anyone doing upholstery work. After picking out your
fabric from Sailrite, order these parts as well. I’m going to fold this over on itself in
half just so it fits on my cutting mat. Eric: We’ve decided to add piping to both
the top and the bottom side of each cushion. So we needed to take the perimeter of all
three cushions and multiply it times two to determine how much piping we need. In most
situations, 55 feet of piping is required for most lounge chairs. When I sew these together, I also want a 45
degree angle to stitch them together so I’m going to cut that. You can stack these on
top of each other, if you like, to cut them. You will need to do them all right sides up
if you’re going to stack them together like that. These are all still right sides up.
To stitch them together, I’m going to put them right sides together. When I stitch,
I’ll be stitching from this angle to this angle. The bias cut in that makes it so that
all of the thickness doesn’t fold over on itself. Now when I stitch this together, this
is where I’m going to stitch from the angle here to the angle here. I’m going to chain
stitch these so I’m just going to keep stitching piece after piece without breaking my thread.
So to actually make the cording, I’m just going to lay this piece in the center, fold
it over, and there’s a tunnel in this foot that’s going to carry it through. Eric: We’re using the Sailrite Ultrafeed
LS-1 Sewing Machine. This is a straight stitch sewing machine. The Ultrafeed sewing machines
have a cording tunnel built right into the standard foot to accommodate piping like this. I’m going to open up the seam so it’s
as flat as it can be. This fabric is a little bit thick so it’s a little bit harder to
work with than other fabrics are. Eric: If you’re using a home sewing machine,
you’ll need to install a cording foot. Just let the machine do the work and guide
it into the foot. Eric: Everything is now cut out, and here
it is laid out. Cindi will explain each piece. These are all the pieces that we need to make
the cover for that cushion on that chair. This is the pillow front, this is the hinge
for the pillow, and this is the pillow back for the headrest pillow; all this makes up
the headrest pillow. Here’s the two hinges that go between the back and the seat cushion
and the seat and the foot cushion. This is the backplate and its zipper. This is the
seat plate and its zipper. That’s the foot piece plate and its zipper. These are my ties,
which I will sew all in one long strip and then cut them down to length. These are all
the strips that I need for the boxing, which I’ll cut to length as I put the cushions
together. This goes together in a process. First I’ll put the cording on everything.
Then I’ll start with the seat cushion and start constructing it. The cushions get constructed
as they’re put together so try to hang in there and stay with me; it will all work. Eric: Next up, we’ll show you how to make
the zipper plaques. Our cushion has three- not including the headrest. We’ll show you
how to make one. You’ll need to make the others as well at this time.
When I make the zipper, I turn down 1” and put a few pins in it. Eric: When sewing this lounge chair cushion,
we’re going to be using a stitch length of approximately 4mm-5mm in length. I’m going to place that fold in the middle
of the teeth and run the right edge of my foot right up against the teeth. Eric: We want this straight stitch to be close
to the zipper, but not on top of it. If it were on top of it, it would make it very difficult
to use the slider. So using the presser foot against the teeth is a perfect position for
that stitch to be placed. We’re using a #5 Vislon zipper, but you could use a #5 Coil
zipper as well. And I want my zipper to match- the stripes
to match- so I’m going to fold under on this side the 1”. Eric: A Vislon zipper typically lasts a little
longer outdoors. Though they both can be used for indoors or outdoors. And place the two folds together and the edge
of the foot against the teeth of the zipper and stitch it again. Eric: When sewing the other side of the zipper,
be sure to sew it on the same side that you originally sewed the first one on. In other
words, against the same side of the presser foot. That way the distance of the stitch
is exactly the same on the left side and the right side of the zipper. That means you’ll
typically start sewing from the opposite end when you do the other side. We always recommend
installing the slider now so it’s not forgotten. When I put the slide on, I have this little
lever going up away from the bottom of the zipper. Slide it on the end and just tug a
little bit on either side of the teeth and your slide will go on easily. Eric: Make all your zipper plaques as shown.
Coming up next, we’ll make the ties that’ll tie the cushion onto the metal frame.
You can fold this and pin it. I’m going to see if I can do it without pinning it just
because it’s faster. But if you need to, you’re going to fold each side into the
center and then fold it in half again and stitch along this edge. Eric: We have six locations that these ties
need to be used, and each length of tie is approximately 12” and there are two at each
location. So 12” times 12” is 144” worth. I’ve got this tie all made in one big long
strip and I’m going to cut it down to 12” with a hotknife. Eric: Since it is basically just a tie, it
doesn’t have to exactly be 12”. We’re using a Sailrite Edge Hotknife, which keeps
the edges of the fabric from unravelling. If you don’t have a professional hotknife
like the Sailrite Edge Hotknife, you can use a wood burning tool or a soldering gun. The hotknife finishes off the edge so it doesn’t
ravel and it cuts it. Eric: Next up, we need to sew the piping onto
the plates. We’re going to show it with only one plate, but you need to do all six
now. I have the zipper ready for the seat plate.
The first thing I’m going to do is put the bias cording that I made around the perimeter
of these two pieces. Then I’m going to add the hinges to it. Eric: Always try to start your piping at the
back side of the cushion in the middle. Here we’re leaving a tail that’s approximately
2”-3” unsewn so that it can be joined together when the piping goes all the way
around the perimeter of this plate. As mentioned before, the Sailrite Ultrafeed Sewing Machines
have a cording tunnel built right into the standard foot. I need to clip at the corner so it goes around
the corner nicely. Eric: Watch what Cindi does here. She will
find the corner, bury her needle, lift the presser foot, then turn the piping and the
plate, lower the presser foot, and continues to sew. That makes a perfect corner. She’ll
do that at each one of the corner locations. Here we are at the next corner. Cut, sew up
to the corner about a ½” away from the edge, leave the needle buried, lift the presser
foot, rotate the assembly, lower the presser foot, then continue to sew. Let’s skip ahead
to where we have to join the piping together. When I get back to where I started, I’m
going to cut this about 3” longer than my end here
and open this up. Pull the fabric back and
trim the cording- just the cording- off even with the beginning of my bias. Then fold this
back. I fold it back in a diagonal line so it doesn’t all fall back over on itself.
It will be not quite as thick this way. Tuck it inside and fold it back over. Eric: We’re installing piping on all of
our plates. We have six plates for our lounge chair. We’re only going to show it on this
one plate, but if you desire piping, you need to do it to all your plates now. And there’s the cording on the first piece.
I’m going to do the same with the other piece that’s the same size as this one. Eric: We’ll start by building the seat cushion. The first piece I’m going to do is I’m
going to finish the edges of these hinges and that’s just turning under about a ½”
for a hem on each of the short ends. Eric: If your fabric has a right side and
wrong side, be sure to fold the hem in towards the wrong side. You may have noticed that
we used masking tape and labeled these hinges and all of our other assemblies so that we
would not get confused. I’m going to start putting the seat cushion
together, and I need the two hinges that we made, I need the zipper, I need two pieces
of boxing, and we’re going to put four ties on this cushion. First I’m going to put
the ties at the back corners back here. Eric: Again, notice the masking tape with
the labels. This greatly aids in helping to keep confusion to a minimal. Please do that
if you have not done it already. To evaluate the location of the ties, take
a look at your chair and see where it will tie easily. Then position those ties exactly
where you want them for your particular chair. Ties should always be installed on the backplate,
never the top plate. This piece with the ties becomes my bottom
piece. So that’s all I’m going to do to this piece right now. I want the ties to be
at the bottom. The hinges will be on the top piece. Eric: The two hinges for our lounge chair
will be attached to this seat. They are folded in half when sewn. And I would like the stripes to match. Eric: Be sure the hems on the two short sides
are folded in. So I’m folding this in half and I’m going
to stitch it into this seam. Eric: You’ll notice that when she does the
sewing of the hinge she does not do any reversing. That’s because when the next boxing piece-
the facing piece that goes around the perimeter of our box cushion- is attached, it will re-sew
that hinge yet again. So we don’t have to worry about the stitches coming loose. If
you want to do some reversing you can. It’s not required. So there’s what that looks like with one
hinge, and I’m going to put the other hinge on this side. Eric: The process for installing this hinge
is done exactly the same way. We line up the stripes, fold it in half, and sew it to the
edge of the top plate. We will not show this whole process. And again I want to match the stripes. Here’s
the top plate and the bottom plate of your seat cushion. One has ties; one has hinges.
I’m going to attach the zipper next. Also matching the stripe. For the zipper, I’m
going to start in about 2” and stop about 2” in so that I can attach the boxing piece
to the end of it. Eric: It is important to leave the 2” or
3” unsewn at each end of the zipper plaque so the boxing can be attached. Then it can
be sewn to the plate. You’ll see that a little bit later. This Sunbrella Upholstery
Fabric is beginning to stack up, layer upon layer, but you’ll notice the Sailrite Ultrafeed
Sewing Machine does a phenomenal job of sewing it. So there’s what that looks like with the
zipper in. Now I’m going to work on the boxing. And I’ve marked the wrong side of
this with an “X”. Eric: When sewing boxing to plates, remember
the right sides always face each other. I’m going to match up the stripes in the
front, and make sure I have enough to go around each side. I will have to add on to this to
make it long enough to go around the corner. But the part I’m mostly concerned about
is matching the front so I’m going to do that first. Eric: Since we’re sewing a striped fabric,
and the stripes only line up on the front side and the back side, we’ll start with
obviously the front side as that is the most important area to line up the stripes. Besides,
they obviously will not line up. I’ll need to clip the corners in this also. Eric: The Sailrite Ultrafeed Sewing Machines
have a cording tunnel, or piping tunnel, built right into the standard foot. Notice she does
the same process: she finds the corner about a ½” away from the edge of the fabric,
lifts her presser foot, rotates the fabric, lowers her presser foot, and continues to
sew. Just like we did when we installed the piping onto the plate. If your sewing machine
does not have a cording foot built into it, you need to install a cording, or piping,
foot onto the sewing machine to sew this; if you’re using piping.
Cindi notices the boxing’s not long enough so she stops short. I’m going to have to add to this one also
to make it long enough because I don’t want my seam to be right here because I already
have this thickness and the thickness of this going together. I’m going to trim this off
back here and put my seam over on this side and add to it back here. Eric: What Cindi’s doing here to add to
the length of the boxing is completely acceptable and it will look great too. So even if you’re
only short 1” or even 20”-30”, don’t worry about doing this when required. She’s
not even concerned about where the stripe lies. You’ll notice it’ll still look great. Now I have a seam on the side instead of back
here. I have a piece that’s way too long. So I’m going to put my clip in the corner
and turn it- not sewing it, just turning it- and cut this a couple inches beyond the end
of the zipper. Then I can stitch the zipper end and the end of this boxing together- right
sides together. Eric: Use some scrap fabric to create a zipper
stop. This is a zipper stop. Eric: Actually just sewing over the teeth
creates a zipper stop. But by adding this scrap piece of fabric that helps to reinforce
the stitch and also creates a better stop. If you’re using a home sewing machine, and
you don’t have a Sailrite Ultrafeed Heavy Duty Sewing Machine, you may need to walk
over the teeth by rotating the balance wheel by hand. We don’t have to worry about that. So now this is too long. I’m going to fold
that extra underneath back here when I get around the corner. So go back to where I stopped. Eric: Bury the needle at the corner. Rotate
the balance wheel by hand to do this. I’m going to take that extra and just fold
it under. Eric: This is an awesome way to join the boxing
to the zipper plaque and not have to be concerned about the extra length of boxing when attaching
it because this creates a beautiful piece and also a pocket for the slider of the zipper. There’s what that looks like. The reason
I do that extra there is because then I don’t have to have an exact measurement for my boxing.
It also hides the end of the zipper. Eric: The other side of our boxing needs more
length as well. So here we’ll join another piece of boxing to that. Now when I get over to the other side, I want
to stitch from the backside so I can start here and go around. So I need to turn it over. Eric: Notice that a slit is still made in
the boxing, which is now underneath the plate. As Cindi sews all these assemblies together,
her stitch is about a ½” from the raw edge of the fabric and as you can see, she carefully
lines up the edges of the fabric so they are even. Again she’s going to stop short so
she can join the boxing to the zipper plaque just as she did on the other side of this
cushion. Here’s the seam where I added my extra piece
on this side. I’m going to clip the corner and turn it and then give myself a couple
inches beyond the end of this and trim it off. Then stitch the end of the zipper and
the end of the boxing together. Eric: The slider’s already been installed
to the zipper. If you have not done that, be sure to do that now because once this is
sewn together, you’d have to rip the stitches out to install the slider.
Same process…the boxing’s a little bit too long. But we don’t have to worry about
it because we’re going to tuck it back on top of itself and create a nice pocket. There’s that extra fabric that we had on
the other side folded under there. Eric: And here, we’re coming to the beginning
spot where we started sewing. We sew a few inches over that and we’re done. Here’s what your piece looks like right
now. This is actually the bottom and this is the top. Once again I’m going to match
the stripes. So I’m going to put it right sides together. You can see that the stripes
match in the back and in the front. I’m going to start at the front to make sure those
match because those are the ones that are most important. Here’s my boxing strip and
here’s my hinge. Eric: The hinge has already been sewn to the
top portion of the plate. You’re sewing the boxing over top of that hinge. We didn’t
show it, but a slit’s already been made at this corner. That slit should never go,
or be cut, past where we’re sewing. At the next corner, we’re going to show you how
to accurately put the slit where it belongs. So keep watching. We’re going to show that
before we move on to the next step. It is very important to be sure that the corner’s
on the other side of the cushion are directly opposite of each other. Here Cindi will show
you how to do that making a slit. I’m folding this where the corner is. I
can see by the stripe that it’s straight so I’m going to clip there. Hopefully, my
corner will land at my clip, which it does. We have that extra fabric there under the
zipper so I’m going to fold that in.
You can see that the stripe matches back here also. Eric: She’ll find the corner by folding
the assembly at the corner to find it on the opposite side of the boxing and create a slit. Fold that extra with the zipper underneath
the zipper again, and my clip should meet at my corner. Eric: On the inside of this assembly, the
ends of the ties are just hanging loosely. We do not want to sew those in by accident
so be sure you push them inside the assembly so they do not get sewn in when sewing around
the perimeter of this cushion. We’re going to skip ahead to where we started
sewing and just sew directly over there by a few inches and we’re done. This one is ready to be turned inside out,
or right side out. Eric: The process for building each of the
three box cushions that are required for this lounge chair are done exactly the same way.
However, there is one important factor and that is how they are joined together with
the hinges. There is an exact process for that. Cindi will explain that more in detail
in the next chapter. This is the top with a hinge on each side,
ties on the bottom, and your zipper in the back. This piece goes right here on the chair.
We’ll connect this piece next- the foot piece- and then we’ll add the top piece
to it. Eric: We’ll start by showing how to sew
the foot box cushion to the seat box cushion. This is the seat piece that we just finished
and here’s our hinge. This is the foot piece that needs to be attached to it. So the first
step in attaching these is to attach the top plate to the hinge. Again, I want my stripes
to match. So I’m going to sew the hinge part. Eric: Cindi’s joining the top plate of the
foot cushion. At the edge of the cushion where I started
and stopped my cording and match the stripes as I do that. Here’s my hinge, and I’m
going to attach it to where this cording is attached. Eric: This is the folded portion of the hinge.
You’ll notice the fold. So she’s lining up the fold with the raw edges of the plate
on the bottom side. All of our pieces have been labeled with masking tape for easy identification.
If you haven’t done that, we recommend doing that highly. Again, no reason to do any reversing
as a boxing will be installed on top of this hinge in a later step. The top plate of the
foot cushion is now attached. So now we have the center seat is finished.
Here’s the piece that goes at the foot of the chair. That’s all we’re going to do
to this right now. We’re going to set it aside for a few minutes.
Here’s the other half of my foot piece. It has the cording applied to it. I need two
boxing strips. The zipper will go back here. Eric: This is the bottom plate of the foot
cushion. And we’re going to put ties at the bottom
corners of this. Eric: That is where we deemed the ties would
do best for our chair. Yours may be different. However, ties will always be attached to the
bottom plate. So the first thing I want to do is attach
my ties and my zipper. Eric: Again no reversing is done over the
ties because the boxing will secure the ties well in a later step. Now the zipper plaque
will be installed. She notices that the slider was forgotten on this zipper plaque. So she
installs that now. Our fabric has stripes so she uses those to line up the zipper plaque.
If yours doesn’t have that, just center it. So I’m starting on the zipper again, about
2” away from the end, and lining up the stripe
and stopping about 2” from the end. Eric: To the bottom plate of the foot, we’ll
install the boxing. Now I’m ready to apply the boxing strip,
and I’m going to start at the front because that’s the important part and line up the
stripe again. Eric: Follow the exact same process that was
done for the seat box cushion. We will not show all of this. Here’s the piece that we just sewed the
hinge onto the foot plate. This is what it looks like. Here’s your seat and here’s
your foot and here’s your hinge. I’m going to fold this back inside and leave it there.
It needs to be inside when we sew it. I’m going to mark my corners on this piece by
folding it and just making a clip. What I’m doing here is folding the piping back on itself,
like that, and then going straight out from that to make a clip for the corner on the
other side of the boxing. Eric: This is done to ensure corners are lined
up between the top plate and the bottom plate at the corners. I do that to all four corners. This is the
bottom of the foot piece with the ties on it. Leave this cushion inside where it is
now and flip this one over on top of it. You want the zipper to be where the hinge is;
here’s my hinge right here. So I’m going to stitch all four sides of this. Leave the
zipper open a little bit so you can get the cushion out from the inside. Eric: When sewing the plates and the boxing
of this foot cushion together, be sure the seat cushion in the middle and any ties in
the middle are not accidentally sewn into the perimeter stitch. So push them deeply
inside the cushion if necessary. As she comes to the corner, you’ll notice the little
tuck from the excess boxing, which creates a pocket at the end of the zipper. Be sure
that is tucked exactly the same way as it is on the other side of the boxing so it matches. When you come around the corner, you have
to be careful that you don’t catch this cushion that’s tucked on the inside. So
I’m going to push it over out of the way. Eric: Alright we’re going to skip ahead
to the opposite corner of the zipper. So here we’re going to round this corner and then
we’ll have the end of the zipper plaque again. We have to make the tuck with the excess
boxing there, just like we did previously. That creates the pocket at the end of the
zipper. And now we come upon where we started sewing. We’ll sew over that by a few inches
and we’re done with this assembly. Now the foot and the seat are sewn together. This is what it looks like after you get it
sewn. It’s all completely enclosed with a big lump in the middle because there’s
a cushion inside there. So we’re going to unzip the zipper and pull the cushion out,
and also turn this one right side out. Here’s the foot piece, here’s the hinge, and here’s
the seat piece with the ties at the bottom of the foot and at the top edge of the seat.
So we built these two pieces so far. Eric: Up next, we’ll sew the back rest top
plate to the assembly. Here’s the foot piece that we just attached.
Here’s the seat piece that we made to begin with. This is the backrest piece. I’m going
to attach this piece here to the hinge- right sides together. This is the top plate and
the bottom plate. We’ll get the pillow and ties attached to it next. Eric: As we did for the foot, we’ll attach
this top plate for the backrest to this assembly- right over the hinge. Cindi flips the panel
so the seat assembly is on top. The backrest is on the underside of this assembly. Here
the hinge is being sewn to that. Once the hinge has been sewn to the top plate of the
backrest, we will stop because now we need to build the optional headrest pillow. That’s
coming up next. If you’re not doing that, skip that chapter. Here’s what we have now: the front of the
back piece, the seat and the foot piece. I’m going to fold all this up on itself again,
and then set it aside for a minute. All of this is going to end up on the inside when
we put the next piece on. Eric: If you’d like an optional headrest
pillow, now’s the time to build that so you can add it to your assembly. We also need to make the back pillow- the
big pillow hinge. I’m just going to turn in about a ½” on each short edge and top
stitch it. Eric: This is done exactly the same way we
did the hinges for the seat. Next we’ll build the zipper plaque. This process is done
exactly the same as what was done for our box cushions. These are my two pieces for my pillow zipper.
To make the zipper for the pillow, I’m going to turn in about 1”and stitch the zipper
in with the fold in the fabric at the middle of the teeth and the right edge of the foot
up against the teeth. Eric: Since we’ve shown this process before,
we’re going to go rather quickly through it. I’m going to do the same thing to add the
other side to it. I just want to make sure that I’ve matched my stripes. So hold it
up next to the fold of the other piece and stitch it also with the right side of the
foot up against the teeth of the zipper. Eric: Don’t forget to install the slider. Slide it on the end and just tug a little
bit on either side of the teeth, and your slide will go on. These two small pieces that
we cut go on the end here. It looks like I’ve cut them too short, or I’ve got my zipper
too long. So I’m going to center it on this and still use it. Eric: Back when she was doing measuring, she
accidentally added a ½” extra. I probably have the zipper too wide. So I’m
going to go back and trim this off after I sew these on. But I do want to trim the same
amount off of this end and this end so my zipper is still in the middle. Eric: Before sewing over the teeth, again
she uses some scrap fabric and cuts a stop. This little piece is going to be my zipper
stop. Eric: We’ll add that opposite piece to the
opposite side just as we did here, and include a stop. We will not show all of this. Here’s what the zipper looks like for the
back of the headrest pillow. This is the hinge that we finished the edges on for the back
pillow. I’m going to fold it in half. This is the pillow that I made the zipper plaque
too big on. So I’m going to trim this off, push those out, and then this hinge gets attached
to this pillow zipper piece. This is my hinge and this is my zipper piece. The hinge gets
sewn to the zipper piece for the back of the headrest pillow. I want the stripes to match
on this also. So I’m going to check that before I sew it so I don’t have to resew
it. The hinge will get sewn right here at the top and then the pillow is actually going
to flip over this way. So this will be the front of the pillow so I know it’s going
to match the front of the cushion. First I’m going to sew this seam and then I’m going
to put the pillow together and attach it to the piece.
I want to check and make sure that the pillow front is going to match the pillow back. So
the next step is to make the tucks in the corners of this. We bring those two little
cuts up next to each other and that gives the pillow the depth that it needs. I’m
going to stitch that down. Eric: To stitch it down, she’ll sew approximately
½” from the raw edge of the fabric or a little bit less. She’ll do that at each
of the four corners. Here she’s pinned it in place so you can see it better. There’s what it looks like when it’s pinned.
This piece from my old pattern is actually going to be a little too long to fit on this
piece. To compensate for the length of this piece I’m going to…so I want a really
big stitch length. I’m going to stitch, and as I stitch, I’m going to push the fabric
towards the back of the foot, which will take up a little bit of this extra fullness. Eric: This practice also gives the pillow
more shape. It won’t be much, but it is a little bit,
and that’s all we need. You can see how that just took in a little bit of fullness
right there to make the depth of your pillow. Eric: Nicely done! Now we’ll do the same
thing to the other end. Now with the hinge on the inside of this and
the zipper opened up a little bit. Eric: Right sides face each other, hinge is
on the inside, stripes lined up. Right sides together. I’m going to stitch
all four sides of this. Eric: It is recommended that this be pinned
in place that the stripes line up perfectly all around the perimeter. Obviously they will
not line up on the two short sides; only the long sides. But by using pins like this, you
can make sure that nothing moves when you take it to the sewing machine and sew. We’ll
sew all around the perimeter and this time, our machine needs set up for a 5mm. We’re
going to move it back down to about a 4mm stitch length, and we’re sewing about a
½” from the raw edges of the fabric. Don’t cut your hinge when you do this side
seam. Make sure it’s out of the way. Eric: The hinge is on the inside. You don’t
want to sew through that. Alright, we’re going to move on and show you what this looks
like finished. I’m going to open up the zipper on the pillow
and turn it right side out. Here’s the little tucks that we made and the little bit of gathering
right there. Easy. Eric: Very nice! Now we can add this assembly
to the backrest and continue sewing it together. Here’s my zipper panel that we made, here’s
the hinge, and there’s the front of the pillow. Eric: We can sew the backrest back bottom
plate to our assembly now. So this is the backplate of the back piece,
and it needs ties up here at the top. I’m going to move those down just a little bit
when I put them on so there not right up at the corner. So those will get sewn on. I want
to put these ties down a little bit away from the corner so I’m going to measure down
3” and make a pencil mark outside by my cording so I know where to put the ties. Eric: If you’ve chosen not to attach a headrest
pillow, you’ll skip the steps regarding that. The pillow gets attached with the zipper facing
you and the stripes will match. We’re going to attach the ties and the little pillow all
at the same time. Eric: Two ties per side, that way we can tie
to each other. No need to do reversing because we are going to be sewing this on to boxing
later on. Line up the stripes to the hinge on the pillow, if you have that, and sew the
hinge in place. If you don’t have an optional headrest, you would skip sewing this hinge
onto this plate, and you would skip ahead and sew on the boxing to the plate and the
zipper plaque, which is coming up next. When you reach the other side, sew the ties in
place there as well. Ours are about 3” down from the corner to keep it away from the pillow. Here’s what this piece looks like now with
the ties attached and the pillow attached to it. I’m going to leave the pillow on
the inside as I attach the boxing. So I’m going to put the zipper on first again and
line up the stripes, and then go back and attach the boxing to it. Eric: Again, leave some room at the end so
the boxing can be attached to the zipper plaque on both sides. Since we did this all in entirety
when we sewed the seat cushion together, we’re going to skip ahead here. Here we’re sewing
the boxing to this plate. Once that’s done, we’re going to fold the assembly at each
corner to find the appropriate spot to create a clip for the corner. Here’s our pile of other cushions with the
backplate attached. We are going to leave all of this inside and attach this last piece
with the zipper at the hinge and stitch all the way around all four sides. We want to
make sure everything stays inside- all the ties and the pillow and all of this pile of
cushions ends up on the inside. Open up your zipper a little bit so you can get the cushions
out after you’re finished. Eric: Everything is on the inside of this
pillow assembly. So when you sew around the perimeter, be careful not to sew any ties
or, if you have the optional headrest pillow, be sure you do not sew through that as you
sew around the perimeter. Make sure you keep all of this stuff out of
the way. You don’t want to stitch anything into this seam except for the boxing. Eric: If you’ve done it correctly, the notches
on the boxing should line up with each of the corners. Now this is probably hard to see, but this
is the fold at my zipper and there’s the clip at the corner. This is pretty thick right
here because of that hinge. Eric: A home sewing machine will likely struggle
with this fabric assembly, but not the Sailrite Ultrafeed Sewing Machines. You may need a
heavy duty sewing machine to do a job like this. When you go down the side, you need to push
all of this inside and keep it out of your way. Eric: The majority of our sewing for this
cushion cover is completed. As you can see, the Sailrite Ultrafeed is a phenomenal sewing
machine for upholstery applications like this. Buy yours today from Sailrite. We’re going
to skip ahead to where we started sewing and this assembly is now sewn together. Here’s what we have with the boxing attached
to the front and the back of the back cushion. The zipper’s opened up a little bit. I’m
going to open it up the rest of the way and everything is inside. There’s the two cushions,
and then I can turn this one right side out. Eric: Next, we’ll measure and cut our foam
that we’ll insert inside of our lounge chair cushions. I’m ready to cut the cushion cores for this
chaise lounge. I’m going to cut my cushion cores at the same size that I cut my plates-
the 22 ½” wide by 19” long for the seat, 22 ½” wide by 29” long for the foot piece,
and 22” wide by 28” long for the back. Eric: What type of foam should you use? Since
this is a lounge chair and it’s typically outdoors, using a polyurethane foam, like
what we’re showing here, is an option. However, if it gets soaking wet, it will take a long
time to dry out. So this is my seat and this will be my foot
piece. Eric: For polyurethane foam, if it gets wet,
it could take weeks to dry out. Another option is using dry fast foam. Dry fast foam is meant
for water. It’ll go right through the foam, especially if a breathable fabric is used,
like a Sunbrella Upholstery Fabric we’re using in this video. So whether it’s polyurethane
foam or dry fast foam, both of them can be easily cut with an electric kitchen knife,
as Cindi is doing here. Because we’re using a polyurethane foam, we’re going to wrap,
or encase, the foam in what we call Spun Bonded Pillow Protector Fabric. That will help to
prevent the water from possibly soaking into the foam. You can also do the same thing with
a silk film. We’re going to use this Spun Bonded Fabric
to add a water resistant layer to this foam. It does not have to fit perfectly. So I’m
just going to cut a few inches extra all the way around and stitch it together. I’m going
to do this for all three of the cushions. Eric: In this situation, since we’re using
this Spun Bonded Pillow Protector Fabric, we’re going to sew a cover over top of the
foam. If we were using silk film, we would simply wrap the foam in that.
We’ve placed a bowl under the Spun Bonded Pillow Protector Fabric and then filled the
top cavity with water. After at least 7 ½ minutes, let’s check to see if any water
leaked through. Because both the Sunbrella Upholstery Fabric and this fabric is water
resistant, that will help to prevent water from majorly leaking into the foam. As you
can see, there’s no water in the bowl. I’m going to put a couple pins in just to
hold this together while I stitch it. I have two layers here. I’m just going to stitch
around- down one side, across the one side and up. I’m going to leave this whole side
open to stuff my cushion core in. Eric: Please excuse the noise in the background.
That’s our 50’ plotter table plotting fabric.
To sew this fabric, we’re still using the same V-69 Polyester Thread. It’s a little
bit on the heavy side for the lightness of the fabric. So Cindi will pull on the back
of the fabric as she’s feeding it through the sewing machine to keep the puckering to
a minimal. This also relieves some of the upper tension of the sewing machine to create
a stitch that will not pucker the fabric as much. Once three sides are sewn, insert the
foam. Then once the foam’s inserted then we can sew closed the other end. You can see that this is pretty sloppy, and
that’s okay. This fabric is very, very fine. When we stuff it into the cushion, you won’t
know that this extra fabric is there. Eric: After our foam covers are made, we can
move on and do the same thing for the headrest pillow. For the headrest pillow, I’m going to use
the old piece that we used to make our pattern out of for the pillow itself. We also want
this to be a little bit bigger, and it will compress into the form when we put it in.
So I’m just going to cut like ¾”-1” larger than my pattern. I’m still going
to take the tuck in the corner to fit the back. Eric: Cindi is cutting two, but we only really
need one. We’ll cut a 24 ½” by approximately 12 ½”. I’m just going to make a little clip here.
I have two layers here. I don’t need two layers of this; I only need one. I have about
24 ½” x 12”-12 ½”. This is for the front piece. Then for the back that had the
zipper in it on the pillow itself, I’m going to cut it just a little bit bigger. Remember
it had these two little pieces on the sides. Eric: We’ll cut this back side to 23 ½”
by approximately 9 ½”. No need to be terribly accurate here. This is just a pillow insert. This one is 9 ½” x 23 ½”. When I get
ready to sew this, I’m going to put a couple pins in it and just tuck these corners. It’s
just the cover of the pillow; it does not have to be pretty or perfect. Eric: Once the corners are pinned, as Cindi
is doing here; that’s all four corners, we can take it to the sewing machine and sew
the perimeter all around, leaving one side open so that we can insert a fiberfill. She’ll
sew all the way around, except for she’ll leave one of the long sides open. Because
each corner has a little bit of shape, she will sew about 2” from the corner on the
one long side she leaves open. We will not show that. Turn this one right side out so the seam’s
on the inside, and stuff this one with fiberfill. I just keep putting handfuls in until it’s
the way that I feel like it should be. Eric: Sailrite’s Polyester Fiberfill is
perfect for pillow stuffing and throw pillows. It has a beautiful soft feeling. I’m just going to put a couple pins in it
and then take it back to the machine and stitch it closed. Eric: Cindi is now creating a small hem and
pinning the side that she left open so that Polyester Fiberfill could be filled in this
Spun Bonded Pillow Protector Fabric. Then where she stopped sewing, she places the presser
foot on top of that stitch by a couple inches so she sews over it and then sews the opening
shut pulling the pins as she approaches them. Don’t worry about a pretty look because
this is just an insert for the inside of the actual headrest pillow that is made from the
Sunbrella Upholstery Fabric from Sailrite. The first cushion that we’re going to put
in our cover is the back cushion, then we’ll do the seat and the foot, and last the pillow. Eric: Stuffing foam inside of new cushion
covers is rather difficult and it does take a little bit of time. Compress the foam until
it fits. We do want a nice, tight fit. That’s why the foam is slightly larger than the cover;
that is intentional. Once the foam is inserted, you may have to run your hand down to the
corners to be sure that it’s pushed into the corners appropriately. As you can see
it’s a very tight fit, and that is exactly what we want. It will make the cushion look
the best. There’s one cushion in. Now we’re going
to put the seat in. There’s my seat in. You can see that you don’t see that polyester
fabric; it’s invincible from the outside. Eric: All that’s left now is to insert the
headrest pillow insert that we made out of the Spun Bonded Pillow Protector Fabric. Now we can put the headrest pillow in. This
had the tucks in the corners. We want those to go towards the front; the same place where
the tucks in the corner are on the cover that we made. Eric: This project is a gorgeous project and
makes a wonderful lounge chair cushion- no matter what kind of frame it fits in, whether
it be wood or metal or even plastic. Use the ties to keep the cushion on the lounge chair,
even in high winds. Your pillow can flip to the back if you don’t
want to use it, and it’ll just hang there. If you feel like the ties are too long, you
can always trim those off after you’re finished. Eric: Coming up next is the full material’s
list and tools that we used to build this lounge chair cushion. Since most lounge chairs
are typically used outdoors, we recommend the best indoor/outdoor upholstery fabric
in the world- Sunbrella Upholstery Fabric- from Sailrite. Here’s the tools and material’s
list. Typically most lounge chairs are approximately the same size as the one we made, so here’s
the amount of material’s that you’ll need to order for your lounge chair. All of the
materials and most of the tools can be ordered at Sailrite. This completes the tutorial on
how to make lounge chair covers. You’ll find thousands of decorative fabrics that
will work for lounge chairs or hundreds of Sunbrella Upholstery Fabrics at
Here are two related videos you may want to click on now.
For more free videos like this, be sure to check out the Sailrite website or subscribe
to the Sailrite YouTube channel. It’s your loyal patronage to Sailrite that makes these
free videos available. Thanks for your loyal support. I’m Eric Grant, and from all of
us here at Sailrite, thanks for watching.