Hello this is Dustin with Home Mender
and today we are going to be installing some vinyl tile in a bathroom floor
also known as peel-and-stick tile. Not the best reputation for this kind of
floor. It’s favored among homeowners that don’t really want to spend a lot of
money but it does give them a facelift for their bathroom. Let’s get to it. First
thing we want to do is find out what kind of floor we have down now. This one
is currently a peel n stick that a homeowner put down and he decided to
have it done professionally and you’ll see why. It’s obviously pretty flarey
and gross and it’s just awful. This one looks like he’s put down on top
of an already existing floor actually two layers of floor so he’s got three
layers of floor here. If you have a vinyl now and you want to go over it with the
peel n stick, just make sure it’s clean and secured to the floor well. You can go
over top of one layer. Get it really nice and clean so the new tile will stick.
This one’s got three layers of floor on it. Nothing’s going to stick to that so
we’re going to pull this whole thing. We are going to pull the toilet because
there’s nothing worse than a floor that’s cut in sloppily around the
toilet. Save yourself some time, some money and be proud of what you do. Go
ahead and pull the toilet. Now I’ve already valved this toilet off and
sponged out all the water into a bucket so now I’ll be able to lift the toilet
without spilling water everywhere. Alright now that our bolts are loosened we can go ahead and lift the toilet. I’m going to go ahead and set it in the tub and like
with all plumbing repairs, you want to make sure your pants are pulled up
before you do it. Now we are ready to start pulling the shoe moulding. Trusty pry bar. If you have a nicely painted bathroom you might want to cut the caulk
line first. Alright, it looks like this entire floor is coming up in one piece
so let’s go ahead and pull your existing floor if you need to and get rid of it.
Alright, so we got the floor up. Mine was a bit of nightmare. Hopefully yours was a little easier. Now we’re ready to cut some luan
which is like thin 1/4 -inch plywood, a nice finished surface that our tile is
going to adhere to. I wouldn’t try to do it without it. If your floor is at all
deteriorated, it is not going to yield pleasant results.
Alright so we’re ready to measure for the luan. This one’s a 5×6
bathroom. The sheets are 4×8 so we are going to have to put a seam in it.
I’m going to cut this half here and put my seam right there. Try not to put
the seam next to the toilet. That’s just my personal preference. It’s not necessarily wrong. I just don’t like to do it. When you’re making your seam, make sure you have factory edges butting to each other. You don’t want any funky cut lines not
matching up. We’re also going to cut for the flange hole and we’re also, we’ve got a
vent over here that you can’t see, floor vent ,we’re going to cut for that also.
Alright we got our board cut. Were just gonna lay that on in there. Make sure your floor
is good swept before you do this looking Looking good. Again, make sure your factory side
is where you put your seam. Lay our other piece in. There it is. Seams are tight.
Looking good and we’re ready to secure the luan to
the subfloor. I’m using these inch and a half ring shank nails. Uh, they’re not
ring shanks. I’m using these one and a half inch ribbed… I don’t know what
they’re called. Let me look on the box. Ring shank underlayment nails. They’ve
got these little ribs in them so the nails won’t pull out and start lifting
your floor. Around every eight inches you should have a nail. Alright, I got my floor nailed off. I’m
just going to do a little walk-around test just to make sure I don’t have any
areas lifting or any loose areas and we’re ready to start putting down the
vinyl. Now some flooring guys may tell you that you need to put some skim coat
or floor leveler in between the seams of the luan. We’re putting down vinyl tile.
Even with sheet vinyl, I haven’t found that it’s really important as long as
your board’s good and secure and it’s a tight seam, your floor is going to go in
nice and it won’t lift. Laying out your floor is important. You don’t want to have like less than six inches of tile near the edges so my bathroom is almost exactly
five foot by six foot so I don’t have to really worry about it but if yours is
like six foot three then you’re going to want to start it with at least a half
tile in that way you’ll have like an eight or nine inch tile on the other
side. So the way I’m going to start this one, I’m going to start with full tile up
against the tub because I want it to be a nice tight joint at the tub. You’re
putting shoe moulding back here so you only have to come within about a quarter
inch of the baseboard. I’m using this style here. Some of the tile is
directional and it’ll have an arrow on the back. Mine does not. I can put it any
way I want but if yours does make sure you pay attention to that. Alright so
front to back I have like 58 inches which means it’s going to be near five
foot when I go up underneath the threshold to the door. I’m going to start
with a full tile behind the toilet and work my way this way and that way I’ll
have enough to tuck under the door jamb. Now I hope you can see this. When you’re
laying this in here, go ahead and peel your back. I like to tuck it and butt it
all the way to this. Make sure the sides are straight before I stick it to the
floor. Looking pretty. Now I know these two tiles are going to get cut for the
toilet flange so with the back on my paper, I’m going to go ahead and lay it
up here and then just kind of eyeball and draw around the toilet flange and
that way I’m ready to cut that line. When you cut, all you have to do is score it with
a knife and then you can just break it off. Do the same thing with the front of
the flange and mark. Don’t worry about getting it too tight to the flange .You are having a toilet going back here. At least we hope you are. Looking good. Now we can go ahead and continue to run our full tile. For peel-and-stick this is looking awesome! Now when your marking a cut, I like to lay a full tile up there, mark it and
use another tile as a straight edge. Cut that and of course make sure your cut
side goes to the wall or the cabinet in this case. It’s also a good idea to plan
your seams so it doesn’t break right on a tile. This one here has a tile that’s
overlapping at least three inches for my seam, that means it’s good to go. Now when you get to the door jamb, measure the piece and let it run underneath the
threshold just about quarter or half inch. This one’s almost a full tile. I’m
going to cut mine at ten and a half and then we’re going to mark to the door
jamb cut out. I’m going to lay it up there and just mark where it’s going to slip in underneath and just kind of draw the shape here. There we go. Let’s dry fit it. Here we go.
Now as long as you get it pretty close and uniform, you can go ahead and caulk
that tile to the door casing. Now we’re going to do behind the door and of
course you’re not going to be able to see that. Alright, our floor is in. I
know you couldn’t see what I did behind the door but I can assure you, it looks
amazing. This one’s kind of got like a six inch tile look with a faux grout
line. It’s pretty sharp. Um, it does look like tile which I seem to like. Now we’ve
got to cut some shoe moulding and put it in. I’ll leav e that to you. We’ve also got to
set the toilet. Definitely put the shoe in first. This one’s got a broken flange
so I’m gonna need to run to the store and grab some parts for that. That’s it!
You just installed a new floor. This homeowner is going to be happy and his
wife hasn’t seen it yet so he can tell her that he did it and none will be the
wiser. So that’s it! If you need help installing
the shoe molding or the toilet be sure to watch our other Home Mender how-to
videos. I hope you learned something today and if you did, don’t forget to
click subscribe. Thanks for watching!